St Enodoc Asparagus
Jax Buse is our asparagus grower and Jax has been supplying our restaurants for a number of years. Based just five miles up the road from Port Isaac, Jax and her family have been growing asparagus in Cornwall since 1991.
It’s very satisfying to grow such an amazing vegetable which only comes up when it is ready (we don’t use any artificial methods of forcing) and the temperature of the soil allows it.
We asked Jax what her favourite meal is to cook at home and it comes as no surprise that it includes her favourite vegetable, roasted asparagus with pancetta, herbs and garlic. She also told us her favourite food, cod’s roe – boiled in muslin, then fried in slices with tomato ketchup. However, mention baked beans and she will run a mile.
When Jax is not busy on the farm she loves to garden, as she also runs a garden design and maintenance business. She also plays golf and whenever possible enjoys walking the Cornish Coast Path. When asked what kind of music she listens too, Jax surprised us with her eclectic taste, from Nick Cave to more recently playing Rag n’Bone Man with Calvin Harris ‘Giant’.
Asked if she had any advice to give to her younger self, Jax said:
I probably didn’t listen to my old headmaster at the time, but his saying was “to have the courage of your convictions” which has a ring to it…
With grandchildren now on the way, Jax is looking forward to what the next year will bring and we will continue to look to the spring for those precious six weeks when her asparagus is at its most flavoursome and is regularly featured on our menus.
Photography from Restaurant Nathan Outlaw (Bloomsbury Absolute) © David Loftus