The first time I tasted kedgeree was at Billingsgate fish market in London. Peter Kromberg, the head chef where I was working, regularly took the young chefs to the market and we ended our visit with a breakfast of kedgeree. I’ve loved it ever since. My version has some smoked fish, like the traditional one, but I like to include cockles and clams as well.
200g smoked haddock fillet
200g live cockles, cleaned
200g live clams, cleaned
700ml roast fish stock
light rapeseed oil for cooking
50g unsalted butter
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 leek (white part only), washed and finely sliced
1 celery stick, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped
300g long-grain or basmati rice, washed and drained pinch of saffron strands
½ tsp mild curry powder
3 medium eggs
2 tsp chopped coriander leaves, plus a few leaves to finish
lemon wedges to serve
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas 6. Remove the skin from the smoked haddock and cut the fillet into 2cm dice; set aside.
Place a large saucepan (that has a tight-fitting lid) over
When the shellfish are cool enough to handle, pick out the meat from the shells, leaving some in their shells for serving. Place in a bowl and keep cool until ready to serve. Strain the liquor though a fine sieve or muslin to remove any grit or sand; reserve.
To cook the rice, place an ovenproof pan (that has a lid) over a medium heat. When it is hot, add a drizzle of oil and the butter. When the butter is bubbling, add the shallots, leek, celery and garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, to soften without colouring. Add the rice and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the saffron, curry powder, remaining fish stock and the reserved shellfish juice. Bring to a simmer and cover with a lid. Place the pan in the oven and cook for 15 minutes until tender.
Meanwhile, add the eggs to a pan of simmering water, return to a simmer and cook for 6 minutes. Drain and briefly run under cold water, then peel. Quarter the eggs lengthways.
When the rice is ready, remove the pan from the oven and add the smoked haddock, clams, cockles, chopped coriander and egg quarters. Gently fold the ingredients through the rice and season with salt and pepper to taste.
The heat of the rice will gently cook the smoked haddock pieces. Scatter over a few coriander leaves.
Serve the kedgeree straight from the pan into warmed bowls, with lemon wedges, and bread and butter on the side if you like.
Nathan Outlaw’s British Seafood by Nathan Outlaw (Quadrille, £25) Photography © David Loftus